In the 1930s, style-conscious women also looked to Shanghai, seen as the 'Paris of the East', for inspiration. Like their contemporaries in Shanghai, Canton and Hong Kong, women in Singapore wore custom-made 'cheongsams' advertised in Shanghai calendar posters. This figure-flattering 'cheongsam’s' hemline reaches mid-calf, unlike earlier styles which were loosely fitted and ankle-length. It was made in Singapore by the tailor Wah Bee Singapore (华美女衣刺绣). Many Chinese tailors in Singapore trained in the Shanghai style came from Shanghai or Guangdong province. Material: Voile, lace
This is a black cheongsam with a pink and blue floral motif arranged in neat rows. The collar, flap on the right bodice and hems are lined with black piping. It is decorated by knotted buttons and loops known as frog buttons (花钮, hua niu), on the collar and right flap of the cheongsam.
This black cheongsam is decorated with red embroidery all over. It has a nipped in waist which is typical of the 1950s Western silhouette. Such a trend was not only seen in cheongsam, but also in other ethnic costumes such as sari and sarong kebaya.
This is a black sleeveless cheongsam with an all over abstract print of sailing ships. The collar, sleeves and hems are lined with double black and white piping. It is decorated with knotted buttons and loops known as frog buttons (花钮, hua niu) on the collar and right flap of the bodice. This piece belonged to Mdm. Low Suet Hing, who used to visit a Shanghainese tailor at Geylang to make her cheongsams. Shanghainese tailors were known for their workmanship in producing cheongsams of superior quality. Mdm. Low would personally select fabrics from High Street, Arab Street, and Queen Street in Singapore. Influenced by the Western style, Mdm. Low would complement her cheongsam with a small handbag, high-heeled shoes and stockings.
This black sleeveless velvet cheongsam with flowers all over comes with a matching long jacket. It belonged to the late Christina Lee, who was married to Datok Loke Wan Tho from 1950 to 1962. She was a style icon, often seen wearing a cheongsam. Material: velvet
This brown and blue printed sleeveless knee length cheongsam with a matching jacket belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun, director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. Material: satin silk, synthetic, plastic, metal
This is a brown sleeveless cheongsam decorated with a fauna motif all over. The flap on the right-hand side is secured by press studs while the zipper is at the side. This cheongsam belonged to Mdm Wu Chuen Chuen who enjoyed wearing it to work, often with a corset underneath to achieve the desired hourglass figure. A leading businesswoman of her times, Mdm Wu ran the former Stamford Café at Bras Basah Road for 30 years before it closed in the 1970s.
This colourful checkered cheongsam made of Thai silk has a nipped in waist, typical of the 1950s Western silhouette. Such a trend was not only seen in cheongsam, but also in other ethnic costumes such as sari and sarong kebaya. Material: Thai silk
This floral sleeveless knee length cheongsam with a matching jacket belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun, director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. The cheongsam is printed with red roses and yellow flowers. Both pieces of garments were made from synthetic silk. Material: silk, synthetic, metal
This is a short-sleeved, knee-length cheongsam with floral embroidery. The collar, sleeves, and flap on the right bodice have double black and red piping, which contrasts the overall fabric. A figure-hugging piece, it was believed to be influenced by the nipped-in waist style of the 1950s introduced by the West. By then, the cheongsam was so popular that most women owned one, although there were differences in fabric and style. This type of cheongsam was worn for formal occasions or parties right up to the 1960s.
This is a three-quarter sleeved cheongsam with dark brown fauna prints all over.
This green floral sleeveless knee length cheongsam with a matching jacket belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun, director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. Both pieces of garments were made from synthetic silk. Material: silk, synthetic, metal
This is a green cheongsam with vertical stripes and floral motifs allover. It is a unique piece as it has greyish-green puffy long sleeves in chiffon. The cuffs resemble that of a westernized shirt. This belonged to Datin Aw Cheng Hu. Born in 1914, she was the daughter of Mr Aw Boon Par. She wore this cheongsam when she was in her late 40s and 50s. Datin Aw would personally select her fabrics from Modern Silk Store and Chotirmall along High Street, Singapore, before sending them to Shanghainese tailors who were sought after for their cheongsam making skills.
This is a pale pink cheongsam with maroon polka-dots. It has a nipped-in waist, which was popular in the 1950s and 1960s. The flap on the right-hand side is secured by press studs. This cheongsam belonged to Mdm. Wu Chuen Chuen, who enjoyed wearing it to work, often with a corset underneath to achieve the desired hourglass figure. A leading businesswoman of her time, Mdm. Wu ran the former Stamford Café at Bras Basah Road for 30 years before it closed in the 1970s.
This plain purple cheongsam has a nipped in waist which is typical of the 1950s Western silhouette. Such a trend was not only seen in cheongsam, but also in other ethnic costumes such as sari and sarong kebaya. Material: cotton
This purple floral sleeveless and ankle length cheongsam with a matching jacket belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun. Mdm. Zhuo was the director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. Both pieces of garments were made of synthetic Thai silk. Material: thai silk, synthetic, metal
This is a purplish-blue sleeveless cheongsam with a small golden floral motif all over. The flap on the right-hand side is secured by press studs. It is figure- hugging and tapered at the bottom, giving the wearer a pencil-slim silhouette. This cheongsam belonged to Mdm. Wu Chuen Chuen, who enjoyed wearing it to work and parties, often with a corset underneath to achieve the desired hourglass figure. A leading businesswoman of her time, Mdm. Wu ran the former Stamford Café at Bras Basah Road for 30 years before it closed in the 1970s.
This is a white sleeveless lace cheongsam decorated with a cut-out circular motif all over. This piece has a nipped-in waist, which was popular in the 1950s and 1960s. This cheongsam belonged to Mdm. Wu Chuen Chuen, who enjoyed wearing it to work and parties, often with a corset underneath to achieve the desired hourglass figure. A leading businesswoman of her time, Mdm. Wu ran the former Stamford Café at Bras Basah Road for 30 years before it closed in the 1970s.
This yellow cotton cheongsam with sleeves that are folded belonged to the late Christina Lee. It has joint sleeves and the silhouette is loose cut, with a short collar. The cheongsam is stained and suffers from foxing. Christina Lee was married to Datok Loke Wan Tho from 1950 to 1962. She was a style icon remembered for cladding in cheongsam. Material: cotton
This is a yellow lace sleeveless cheongsam decorated with floral embroidery all over. This piece has a nipped-in waist popular in the 1950s and 1960s. The flap on the right-hand side is secured by press studs while the zipper is at the side. This cheongsam belonged to Mdm. Wu Chuen Chuen, who enjoyed wearing it to work and parties, often with a corset underneath to achieve the desired hourglass figure. A leading businesswoman of her time, Mdm. Wu ran the former Stamford Café at Bras Basah Road for 30 years before it closed in the 1970s.
This ‘cheongsam’ with elegant floral prints was worn by Singapore's Second World War heroine, Elizabeth Choy, when she attended Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation on 2 June 1953 in England.
Material: synthetic
This is a brown cheongsam decorated with polka dots. This knee length piece is made from jersey, a knitted fabric made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres. It is known for its stretchability and tends to cling to the body, helping to create the fitted silouhette archetypical of a cheongsam. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This beige sleeveless cheongsam comes with a matching jacket. It belonged to the late Datin Aw Cheng Hu, daughter of Mr. Aw Boon Par. Mr. Aw was a philanthropist best known for introducing the heat rub, Tiger Balm. The cheongsam and jacket were made by Shanghainese tailors with fabric bought from High Street. Datin Aw also had a matching set of jewellery for each cheongsam.
This is a mustard and blue cheongsam with multi-prints. The rich patterns and bright hues create a distinctly ethnic aesthetic and reflects fashion’s craze for ethnic prints particularly in the 1970s. This knee length piece is made from jersey, a knitted fabric made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres. It is known for its stretchability and tends to cling to the body, helping to create the fitted silouhette archetypical of a cheongsam. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a blue cheongsam with short sleeves and decorated with a combination of pink floral motifs and chequered prints. This mid-length piece is made from polyester, a synthetic fabric that first gained popularity in the 1970s. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
Material: lace
The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in China in the early 20th century. Feted for its feminine charm, the dress was an essential part of women’s everyday wear up till the 1960s. It is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.The cheongsam has its origins in the long and loose-fitting robes worn by the Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty, called the “banner gown” (‘qipao’). Initially worn loose and long in the 1920s and 1930s, the cheongsam had evolved by the 1940s and 1950s to become shorter and more form-fitting. Although its popularity was overtaken by mass-produced, Western-style garments during the 1970s and 1980s, the dress experienced a fashion renaissance in the 1990s when it became the inspiration for some of the runway collections created by various internationally-renowned fashion designers. Today, the cheongsam remains a subject of reinterpretation and its style is constantly being updated. Material: batik
This is a short-sleeve brown cheongsam with pink fauna motifs allover. The flap on the right hand side is secured by press studs. Typical of the 1950s style, the sleeves are made from one piece of fabric folded at the shoulder and hemmed at the sides and sleeves. This cheongsam belonged to Amy Ede nee Laycock, the adoptive daughter of John Laycock who was instrumental in founding the Singapore Progressive Party in 1947 and later the Liberal Socialist Party in 1956. Amy Ede nee Laycock was one of the earliest women in Singapore to join politics. She won a seat in the Municipal Council in the 1949 elections when she was 26 years old. She quit politics in the mid-1950s, and helped John Laycock to run his orchid garden in Mandai. She has 3 orchid hybrids Aerides Amy, Vanda Amy and Dendrobium Amy Ede named after her.
This is a brown cheongsam with square motifs all over and pink piping. This calf-length piece is made from Fuji silk, a material from China. It is extremely soft and drapes very well. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is an ankle-length cream and brown cheongsam decorated with op-art prints. Op art, short for optical art, was an abstract style popular in the 1960s in which geometric prints and vivd colours were used to create illusions of movement. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a cream cheongsam decorated with rose pink floral motifs all over. This calf-length cheongsam is made from polyester, a synthetic fabric that first gained popularity in the 1970s.The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a cream coloured cheongsam with floral motifs all over and orange piping. This calf-length piece has a lining and is made from polyester, a synthetic fabric that first gained popularity in the 1970s. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a gold lace cheongsam with wide sleeves. This piece bears the imprint of a European-inspired design, as seen in the use of lace and wide, fluid sleeves. Cheongsams made from lace were usually reserved for more formal occasions. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a sleeveless green cheongsam that comes with a matching jacket. The jacket is decorated with lace panel across the chest and at the hem. The cheongsam is made in Hong Kong and has a tailor’s label, “Johnson”. The piping at the cheongsam collar is slightly worn out. Cheongsams with matching jackets were worn at formal occasions.
This is a grey and purple knee-length cheongsam with multi-prints. The rich patterns and bright hues create a distinctly ethnic aesthetic and reflects fashion’s craze for ethnic prints particularly in the 1970s.The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This red mid-length cheongsam with long sleeves is made from wool and can be worn in cooler climates. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a red cheongsam with black floral motifs. It has a nipped-in waist, a style which was first popularized in the 1950s and 1960s. This knee-length piece is made from silk. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a red cheongsam decorated with polka dot and circle motifs. It has a nipped-in waist, a style which was first popularized in the 1950s and 1960s. This knee-length piece is made from cotton, a material that absorbs sweat easily and is thus ideal for wear in Singapore’s tropical climate. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This cheongsam with floral embroidery and gold trimmings was designed by Ms. Rosalind C.Y. Foo. The cheongsam has a mini hemline, which was extremely popular in the 1960s and influenced by Western fashion. The bust darts on the dress ensured that it fitted the form of the wearer. Ms. Foo was a student at the Slade School of Fine Arts in London, where she studied Western drawing techniques and was exposed to a great deal of Western fashion influences. Although Peranakan by birth, she was an active member of the Chinese Women's Association founded by Mrs. Lee Choon Guan in 1916. Material: silk
This is a yellow cheongsam with floral motifs. It has a nipped-in waist, a style which was first popularized in the 1950s and 1960s. This knee-length piece is made from silk.The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.
This is a blue and white ankle-length cheongsam decorated with paisley motifs and is a reflection of the preference for bold prints during the 1970s.When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This pink floral ankle length cheongsam with long sleeves belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun, director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. It has red and white piping all over. The frog buttons are in the shape of a gourd, which symbolises longevity. The cheongsam is made of synthetic satin silk and comes with a matching shawl made of the same fabric. According to the donor, she was inspired by her grandmother who used the selendang back in Indonesia. Hence this cheongsam and the matching shawl are hybrid of Malay and Chinese influences. Material: satin silk, synthetic
This is a green and orange ankle-length cheongsam decorated with floral motifs arranged in geometric squares, a reflection of the preference for bright colours and bold prints during the 1970s. This piece is made from jersey, a knitted fabric made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres. It is known for its stretchability and tends to cling to the body, helping to create the fitted silhouette archetypal of a cheongsam. When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This is a green ankle-length cheongsam decorated with floral motifs. It is overlaid with a thin chiffon lining, exuding a soft elegance. This piece belonged to Mrs. Irene Lim, who wore it to evening functions at the Lion's Club of Singapore East. Her husband was president of the club from 1972–1973.When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This is an ankle-length cheongsam with a green lining sheathed in chiffon, decorated with floral motifs all over. It also reflects the 1970s preference for bold prints. When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This is a grey ankle-length cheongsam decorated with floral motifs all over and accentuated with a cluster of printed pink and white flowers. This piece is made from jersey, a knitted fabric made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres. It is known for its stretchability and tends to cling to the body, helping to create the fitted silhouette archetypal of a cheongsam.When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This red floral ankle length cheongsam with long sleeves belonged to Mdm Zhuo Yu Chun, director of Tai Wee Company Pte Ltd. It has red piping all over. The frog buttons are in the shape of a gourd, which symbolises longevity. The cheongsam is made of synthetic satin silk and comes with a matching shawl made of the same fabric. According to the donor, she was inspired by her grandmother who used the selendang back in Indonesia. Hence this cheongsam and the matching shawl are hybrid of Malay and Chinese influences. Material: satin silk, synthetic
This is an ankle-length cheongsam with a red lining sheathed in chiffon, decorated with fern motifs all over. It also reflects the preference for bold prints during the 1970s.When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
This is a turquoise ankle-length cheongsam embellished with floral embroidery. When the cheongsam first emerged as a fashion style in the 1920s and 1930s, it was worn long with the hem ending at the ankles. As shorter hemlines became popular in the 1950s and 1960s, long cheongsams were worn mostly as evening wear or on more formal occasions.
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